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Cool as an Alpine Lake
Nestled
between the majestic peaks of the Dolomite Alps, the area surrounding Lake Caldaro
in the German-speaking region of Trentino-Alto Adige is an optimum wine
producing subzone within Italy’s
vast viticultural mosaic. Located
between Trento and Bolzano, just a few miles
from the Swiss-Austrian border, Lake Caldaro’s
ideal combination of marrying factors make a perfect area for fine wine
production. High altitude, warm summer days and cool summer nights, plus excellent
ventilation provided by the large body of water, all help to create wines
that are fresh and balanced. Amidst this
tranquil Alpine valley lie the vineyards of Castel Sallegg, a company
fortunate enough to possess some of the most desirable sites on the slopes of
the lake, making its wines local summer favorites.
Three
varieties typically cultivated in the region, Schiava and Lagrein, and
Moscato Giallo, provide Castel Sallegg with what are arguably its most
distinctive wines. Schiava finds its greatest expression on the western side
of the the lake,
where it is trained in the traditional pergola system. This allows the grapes
to achieve maximum ripeness and attain the most unique reflection of their
terroir. A lightly-colored red wine, Castel Sallegg’s Schiava is also known
as “Bischofsleiten”, or “Bishop’s
Slope”, in reference to its founder, the Bishop of Trento. Considered by many
producers to be the zone’s best site, the term can be interpreted as a by-word
for Schiava at its very finest.
Lagrein
is a perfect example of a variety which profits from Lake Caldaro’s
unique climate. The drainage of Castel Sallegg’s clayey, sandy subsoil “stresses” the
vines and forces their roots to grow deeper in search of water. A more intensely colored and flavored
wine than the Schiava Bischofsleiten, Castel
Sallegg’s Lagrein Riserva is a warm and velvety red -- the perfect accompaniment
to some of the region’s winter dishes. The Lagrein grape is also used to
produce a refreshing rosé. Named Nives,
(a reference to the region’s snowcapped mountains) Lagrein Rosato’s
screw-cap makes it the perfect outdoor picnic wine for summer. Moscato
Giallo, or “Goldenmuskateller” as
it often called locally, is an aromatic grape also considered indigenous to
Trentino-Alto Adige. Its pronounced, deep golden color and unctuous mouthfeel
make it an excellent pairing for richer foods, and is often paired with some
of the region’s cow’s milk cheeses.
Castel Sallegg also
cultivates Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero grapes, for which the sandy, pebbly
limestone around Lake
Caldaro provides an excellent subsoil. The result is a mineral-driven,
fresh-in-the-mouth Pinot Bianco, the crisp, balanced acidity of which combine
for an approachable and food-friendly wine that pairs well with the often
sharp flavors of the local cuisine (such as the smoky flavors of speck, the Alpine prosciutto).
Unlike the over-oaked,
concentrated, high-alcohol-content Pinot Noir often grown in the United States,
Castel Sallegg uses only judicious small and large cask aging to create a
Pinot Nero offering beautiful fruit flavors, bright acidity and a clean
finish.This aging process takes
place within the ancient cellars of the estate, found beneath the walls of
the Castel Sallegg. The
castle's extensive subterranean cellars extend three floors underground,
providing the consistent temperatures necessary for a slow aging in oak
barrels.
The
Castel Sallegg, in addition to its winemaking reputation, boasts a history
steeped in nobility. In
1851 the castle itself and its surrounding vineyard was bought by Archduke
Rainer of Austria,
Viceroy of Lombardy-Veneto. It was later inherited by the Counts von Kuenburg
through Prince Henry of Campofranco. A keen sense of custodian responsibility
and continuity are deeply rooted in the Count von Kuenburg's family, and
today Count Georg von Kuenburg
oversees the production of each wine, ensuring quality and tradition are
forever maintained.
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